NES-Hacks: Your home for Wii and DS Hacking!

I take no credit for this as i've used it before without any issues. This is a guide to disassemble your DS lite in case you want to change the case or mod it with leds etc

SOURCE: phosphors.com

Nintendo DS Lite dissassembly guide (for LED replacement)

Disclaimer: This information is provided as is. phosphors.com holds no claim for any loss and/or damages that you may incur. Disassembling your Nintendo DS Lite voids your warranty.

Required items:
- #00 philips screwdriver
- small regular screwdriver (jewelers size)
- tri-wing screwdriver
- jewelers sized needle-nosed pliers

Prior to disassembling your system, make sure that it is functioning correctly. Be sure to properly ground yourself before attempting disassembly.



1. turn the system over and remove the battery cover using a #00 screwdriver as depicted in the image above. I recommend placing the system on something soft so as not to scratch it while you're disassembling it. after removing the battery cover, remove the battery by inserting your thumbnail between the battery and the inside of the battery case (shown in red highlight) and lifting the battery out.
note: when reinserting the battery, you may find it easier to replace its cover by pushing the battery down as far as it will go using your thumbnail (in the direction indicated by the blue arrow).



2. carefully, using a small jewelers flat blade screwdriver or x-acto type modeling knife, remove the rubber pads covering the screws below. take care in not scratching the clear surface of your ds lite system.


3. using the twi-wing screwdriver, remove the 4 screws shown in blue highlight in the image above. don't forget the one in the top center where the ds chip port is. remove the 3 philips screws (highlighted in red) using the #00 screwdriver.


4. carefully remove the bottom half of the shell. you may find it easier to separate the two halves of the shell by running your thumbnail between to help separate them due to the tabs that lock them together where the gba cart slot is (shown in the image above).


5. with the bottom half of the lower shell removed, you now have access to the motherboard. using the #00 screwdriver, remove the 2 screws shown highlighted in blue to remove it from the lower shell and gain access to the top where the SMDs are located.


6. carefully lift the antennae connector (from the wire end) to detact it from the wi-fi package (as shown above) and then remove the wi-fi package from the motherboard. the wi-fi package is connected to the motherboard with a press-mount connector. under its right side is a piece of double-sided sticky foam to keep it elevated off of the motherboard. it should release easily when you lift the package from the motherboard.




7. remove the L and R shoulder buttons shown in the above left and center images, by carefully releasing the spring captured in the plastic slots. after releasing the springs (shown in the right image), lift the buttons out as assembly, taking care not to lose these tiny parts. you will also want to disconnect the microphone wire (white wire) at the connector by lift it carefully to release it from its circular connector.



8. to remove the motherboard completely, you need to release the connectors for both of the displays. the two wider ones (shown in the image above in the upper left (top display) and lower left feature a clip the locks the flexible circuit board cable in place. to release the flexy cables, carefully lift the dark brown plastic clips by inserting a thumb or fingernail under in the direction indicated by the arrows and lift. the touchscreen input line for the lower screen is the 2nd small flexy cable that connects to the backside of the motherboard.
WARNING: the small flexible cable that controls the touchscreen input is very tiny and harder to reinsert than it is to remove. to remove it, simple pull the cable away from the connector. however, to re-connect it, you will need a set of tiny (jeweler's sized) needle nose pliers to grasp it near the end and force the end back into the connector on the opposite side of the motherboard. you may wish to forgo removing connectors from the lower display altogether when changing out your SMDs (surface mounted diodes).


9. with the motherboard exposed and separated from the rest of the system, you can now replace the SMDs. the left (vertically mounted) is the SMD indicator that lights up when the ds is charging (orange), the top horizontal one represents power on (green) and the lower horizontal one, low battery (red). thanks to Jesper64 for the corrections.


Re-assembly
10. Replace the motherboard back onto the lower half of the case, making sure that it is properly seated prior to re-inserting the 2 screws that hold it in place. make sure to insert the flexy cables for the displays evenly but all the way in prior to snapping the locks back down in place. after reconnecting all of the flexy cables for the displays, reconnect the microphone wire and then replace the L and R shoulder buttons before attempting to reconnect the wi-fi wire and replace the wi-fi package onto the motherboard.

11. make sure that not to cross-thread any of the screws. (this is done by inserting the screw into a hole and then slowly rotating it counter-clockwise (using very little, if any pressure, until it seats properly will ensure that you're not tearing up the plastic threads). also, make sure that when replacing the lower portion of the bottom shell back in place, that everything fits easily without any of the wi-fi antennae or microphone wires binding on anything.

Note: Clean off any excess plastic from the threads of the screws prior to re-assembling the system.